|
Self-Propelled or Push?
The
traditional lawnmower is a push mower. Self-propelled mowers have an
engine that helps push the wheels along, meaning there's less physical
exertion involved. Push mowers are less complex which means they are
cheaper and tend to break down less. However, says Mutchler, if you
have hills or lots of grass to mow, you may want to invest in a
self-propelled mower.
Rear
Bag or Side Bag?
The
bag on most lawnmowers is in the rear, right underneath the handle.
Mutchler says people tend to prefer rear bags because they are more
compact, and they hold two to three times more grass clippings than a
side bag. Consumer Reports says rear-bag mowers are generally better
overall. But, Mutchler says, if you don't bag your grass and you
typically just blow it out the side of the mower, a side-bag mower will
do a better job.
Nine
Essential Garden tools
1. Trowel
Look for a trowel
with a forged-steel head, which is thicker and sturdier than stamped
steel, or one made of aluminum. Stainless steel and aluminum resist
corrosion. The connection between head and handle is a trowel's weak
spot. Look for a model with a strong "throat." Models with one-piece
construction eliminate weak connections between the head and handle.
2. Cultivator
A cultivator
breaks up compacted surface soil and loosens weeds with the sharp tines
of its three- or four-pronged metal claw. The handle is often hardwood
or fiberglass, although some short-handled cultivators are made
entirely of aluminum. Wood provides shock absorption that may be
welcome when working hard soil. Aluminum and fiberglass are lighter
weight and may be less tiring to use. The claw is typically made of
steel. You'll want a sturdy shank connecting the handle to the claw.
3. & 4.
Spade & Shovel
A sharp-edged
spade is a versatile digging tool for planting, edging, digging
perennials, and lots of other chores short of moving soil. That's where
a scoop-shaped shovel comes in. Spade and shovel handles may be hard
wood or fiberglass. Both are sturdy, so choose what's comfortable.
Shovels usually have a long, straight handle. Choose one that reaches
to about shoulder level. Spade handles are shorter to give you good
control in tight spaces. For best durability, look for features such as
a long, fully welded shank joining the head to the handle. Forged steel
will hold up better against rocks and other obstacles. Stainless steel
is relatively easy to maintain, but you pay a premium for it. Forged
carbon steel is sturdy, but beware of rust. Don't skimp on a cheap
stamped-steel spade or shovel. It may not be up to the work required.
5. Pruner
There are two
basic types of this indispensable garden tool. Bypass pruners are
better for shaping shrubs, removing spent blooms, and taming overgrown
vines. Their blades pass each other like scissors and provide close,
clean cuts in live wood. Anvil pruners crush branches between a sharp
blade and a flat "anvil," a design that allows the pruner to cut
through larger objects. They're better for dead wood. Handles are
typically an integral part of the tool, and range in length from 6 to 9
inches. When shopping, hold the tool to make sure it's comfortable in
your hand. Try the blade-locking mechanism to make sure it operates
easily, reliably, and conveniently. With pruners, you get what you pay
for. Pricier models have rotating handles that reduce the pressure on
hands and fingers, along with removable blades that can be sharpened or
replaced.
6. Lopper
Loppers are
essentially long-handled pruners used to trim tall shrubs or to tidy
short trees while you stand firmly on the ground. As with pruners, the
blade design is either bypass or anvil. Handles are often made of wood.
Longer handles give you more leverage as you cut thick branches.
Pricier models may sport lighter fiberglass handles, telescoping
aluminum handles that can extend your reach by 2 to 3 feet, or a
rotating or swiveling head that allows you to angle the blades for a
precise cut without having to be a contortionist.
7. Hedge
clippers
Manual hedge
clippers are the tool of choice for precisely shaping an ornamental
shrub or trimming a few foundation shrubs. Basic models typically have
a wooden handle and 9 1/2-inch blades, which are fine for most needs.
Check for weight and balance. Clippers that are blade heavy or heavy
overall will tire extended arms quickly. So will clippers that are hard
to open and close; be sure there is a tension-adjustment knob. Also
look for a limb notch located close to the handles on one of the
blades. It's designed to snag thicker branches that may elude an
unnotched blade's grip.
8. Leaf rake
Rake tines are
made of bamboo, steel, or plastic. Bamboo tines can dry out and snap
off over time. (An occasional soaking can reduce brittleness.) Steel
tines are sturdy; plastic tines can snap in cold weather. Look for
closely spaced tines, which will better contain leaves and other yard
debris. Some rakes have an adjustable fan that can be widened for
raking large areas and narrowed for getting between closely spaced
plants or shrubs. Handles may be wood or fiberglass, some with rubber
cushioning.
9. Garden cart
A garden cart
eases some of the more backbreaking gardening chores. Unlike
wheelbarrows, which typically have one wheel up front, carts have two
widely spaced wheels beneath their container or tray. The added support
means that the wheels, rather than your arms, help keep the load from
tipping sideways. Small carts can hold as much as 250 pounds, while
medium- and large-capacity models typically hold 300 to 400 pounds. But
because most people can comfortably handle no more than about 150
pounds of cargo at a time, a cart's maximum volume is more important
than its weight capacity. Large 20- to 26-inch wheels help a cart roll
more easily in and out of ditches and over ruts. Bicycle-style
pneumatic tires and ball bearings also ease pushing.
|